Hokkaido expedition part 1.

Hokkaido is Japan's second-largest island, located north of the main island (Honshu, 本州, ほんしゅう). Due to its location, winters here are much colder and snowier than in other regions of Japan. It's no wonder that Hokkaido boasts the best ski resorts, and the snow that falls here, often called Japow (Japan powder), is said to be the world's finest for winter sports. Knowing this, I decided to head north to enjoy some winter fun and experience a white Christmas for the first time in many years. But how to get to Hokkaido? The island is quite a distance from central Japan. From Tokyo, it's about 860 kilometers in a straight line to Sapporo! Considering the mountainous terrain, the travel route lengthens even more.

There are three main ways to reach this island: by train, car, or plane. The train journey can take anywhere from twelve to twenty hours, with numerous transfers along the way. Traveling by car extends the distance to over 1200 kilometers, making it potentially quite costly. Then there's the airplane option. A flight from Narita Airport to New Chitose takes just one and a half hours, and if booked well in advance, the ticket price can be lower than a train fare. Naturally, this was the option I opted for. However, one must also factor in travel time to and from the airport, which meant my total travel time was about eight hours.

Domestic flights are more popular in Japan than in Poland, partly because Japan consists of many islands (about 4,000, with ~550 inhabited). The rules for such flights generally don't differ from international ones. Baggage check and security screenings are standard. The only distinction is the check-in time, requiring passengers to be present at least half an hour before departure. With that in mind, I decided to arrive at the airport just an hour before my flight. It was enough time for me, but just barely. Part of the reason was the elongated departure procedures due to the pandemic, and partly due to issues at security control. Security mistook my laptop charger for a large battery, which is prohibited on board. Convincing them it wasn't a dangerous item took so long that I boarded the plane only five minutes before takeoff. Fortunately, the flight was smooth. After an hour and a half in the air, I looked out the window... and saw a vast white expanse amidst the ocean. That was Hokkaido, completely blanketed in snow.

At the airport, it's clear this part of Japan is closer to Russia. Signs, in addition to English, Chinese, and Korean, also have Russian translations.

I saw the first snow this year on the tarmac. And at the airport itself, not much traffic. The biggest around the burger stand....

New Chitose Airport is connected to the train station, allowing for a quick transfer to Sapporo. Tickets can be purchased from a machine or at the JR (Japan Railway) counter. I checked the route I should take. Google Maps showed three transfers. Based on that, I bought a ticket from the machine, but started having doubts. I was supposed to take both a train and a bus, but wasn't sure if the bus required advance booking. So, I decided to consult with the JR information desk. As it turned out, my connection wasn’t optimal. The lady at JR found a connection that was not only faster but also cheaper! Additionally, she processed a refund for the ticket I had just bought, all in about five minutes. She hurried because the first train on the new route was set to depart eight minutes from when I approached her. I was impressed by the efficiency of the whole process, and realized that while Google provides decent information, sometimes consulting station staff is better.

Trains in Hokkaido - an express train and a regular local train.

Throughout the train journey, I couldn’t stop smiling. I haven't seen so much snow in many years. Even during trips to the Polish mountains, there wasn’t this much of it. Snowdrifts along the roads sometimes piled up to two meters, and the streets often seemed like a solid layer of snow, impossible to clear. My first transfer was in Sapporo, but I couldn’t take a good look around as I had to rush to catch the express train to Asahikawa. During my second transfer, I had a whole twenty minutes, which I used to explore the station. I must admit, the station in Asahikawa left me with a positive impression. The interior, lined with wood, conveyed an incredibly cozy and pleasant feeling. It practically radiated warmth, contrasting beautifully with the weather outside. As my train’s arrival time approached, I returned to the correct platform. Yet there was no trace of the train, only a solitary carriage that resembled the technical cars sometimes seen at Polish stations. Curiously, I walked closer and noticed a large group of people inside. Hesitantly, I approached and asked someone near the door if this was my train. It turned out to be so!

The single-car train ride from Asahikawa to Furano was picturesque, mostly passing through forests. I quickly understood why they sent this type of train instead of a full one—very few people travel this route. Interestingly, if you don’t have a ticket beforehand, payment can be made to the conductor just like on a bus. My final destination was the city of Furano. Like all the towns I passed along the way, it was buried in snow and, initially concerning, appeared somewhat deserted. However, that’s no surprise. When it’s minus ten degrees Celsius outside, few are eager to stroll around. At that moment, I was very glad for my thermal clothing. In such conditions, it's a necessity, not just a convenience. As the sun began to set, I found myself at the hotel, where after a long day of travel, I could finally rest. It’s worth noting some good news: unlike most Japanese houses, Hokkaido homes have heaters, thicker walls, and better-insulated windows, so travelers don’t have to worry about freezing.

So, why did I choose Hokkaido and Furano as my destination? What interesting activities await here? I will answer these questions in the next posts!