Hokkaido expedition part 2.

Furano is a charming town nestled in the heart of Hokkaido, situated by the Sorachi River and another river sharing its name, Furano. Its central location has earned it the nickname "the Navel of Hokkaido." Known for its picturesque lavender fields and a famed ski resort, the town is also home to a vineyard and is particularly celebrated for its "Furano" melon variety. With a small population of just 22,000, the town's diverse attractions are truly remarkable. My primary reason for visiting was the ski resort, which has hosted the Snowboarding World Championships twelve times. The resort actually consists of two separate facilities owned by the Prince Hotels chain: Furano Zone and Kitanomine Zone (北の峰, meaning northern peak).

When I planned my trip, I initially hoped to enjoy the Kitanomine Zone. However, it was closed due to insufficient snowfall. Despite this, the sight of the snowdrifts made me question if my idea of "low snow" was different from the locals. So, throughout my stay in Furano, I explored the second slope, the Furano Zone.

"Not enough snow"

While I previously mentioned the option to reach Hokkaido by car, I advise against this for inexperienced drivers due to road conditions, which weren't the best maintained. Even on the bus, I occasionally worried about slipping on turns. Though local drivers are accustomed to such conditions, the bus journeys to Furano Zone were riddled with delays. Out of all trips, only once, the return to the train station did the bus arrive on time; other times, the average delay was twenty minutes, and once, the bus didn’t show at all. I checked the schedule via Google Maps, a printed timetable at the stop, and the official carrier’s website, so delays in Japan were quite unexpected. Standing outside for an extra twenty minutes at -10°C wasn’t pleasant. Reflecting on this, I recommend considering a hotel with its own fleet of ski buses. Now, let’s return to the ski resort.

In truth, the resort was similar to others I’ve visited. The Furano Zone offers a few lifts, including a large gondola and chairlifts, along with equipment rentals, ski schools, relaxation areas, and restaurants. As a novice in winter sports, I simply enjoyed my time there. The resort caters to all skill levels, providing trails of varying difficulty for both beginners and seasoned skiers. A potential downside is the limited English spoken, so learning basic phrases, accessing someone who speaks Japanese, or using an online translator is advisable.

An important note: near the Furano slope, there’s only the "Shin Furano Prince" hotel. In contrast, the Kitanomine area offers a wider variety of nearby accommodations. Initially, I opted for Kitanomine. I stayed at a nearby hotel, the "Petit Melon," which was closer to the city center and surrounded by numerous small restaurants and a few shops, allowing me to sample local specialties.

While a short walk might seem trivial, in Furano’s conditions, temperatures plunging to minus seventeen or twenty degrees with partially unshoveled sidewalks, each outing became a small adventure. This only made my return to a warm building more satisfying. Some creative folks, perhaps in the past, embraced the icy streets and sidewalks for skiing or snowboarding, but now, there are signs clearly prohibiting such activities. Despite the severe cold, the area was undeniably charming, with trees adorned in lights and snow casting a fairy-tale-like atmosphere. Honestly, I felt more Christmas spirit here than during recent snowless holidays in Poland.

Is this an elf workshop? Well, sort of... Ningle Terrace are wooden huts and terraces housing the studios of local artists. You can buy their wares in them, as well as drink something warm. Ningle terrace is open until dusk, when it looks the most fabulous....

With fewer tourists due to the pandemic, dining options were easy to access without reservations. One of my favorites was "Ramen Restaurant Shojikimura," a small family-run eatery worth visiting. Although the staff speak only Japanese, their warmth and the delicious food made communication easy. While the name suggests a focus on ramen, the menu featured an array of Japanese dishes.

During my research on Furano, I discovered a local specialty: Furano omurice/Furano omucurry (富良野オムカレー). This dish reimagines the classic Japanese omurice (omelet with rice). To be called Furano omurice, the dish must meet certain criteria: all vegetables, eggs, milk, and cheese must be locally sourced. It must be accompanied by a local drink, such as wine from a local vineyard, milk, or carrot juice. The price should be around 1000 JPY, and a decorative flag must adorn the dish. This effort is part of the regional promotion, and the dish even has its own website: http://furano-omucurry.com/

I highly recommend this restaurant. Delicious food and very nice atmosphere!

My time in Furano was enjoyable, mostly spent snowboarding and sampling local cuisine. Though I find the place charming, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the only real draw in winter is skiing or snowboarding. The town doesn't offer much else during this season; the local temple, vineyard, or museum can occupy visitors for a day at most. It’s no surprise that other tourists are mainly fellow skiers or snowboarders; I was one among them.

Despite the biting cold and deep snow, I have warm memories of Furano and hope to return someday.

Eventually, my final day arrived. I packed up and took a bus to the train station, ready to board the quaint, single-carriage train one last time. My next stop was Sapporo, the capital of the island. Curious about what Sapporo is like in winter and what you can do there? Stay tuned for the next post!