Hokkaido expedition part 3.

The next stop on my journey was Sapporo, the capital of the region and the fifth-largest city in Japan. I won't hide the fact that one of the main reasons for going there was because of the nearby airport, making it easier for me to return home. Another reason was the city's famous brewery, Sapporo. I arrived by train, but to reach my hotel, I needed to take the subway. This system is similar to Tokyo's, so I quickly found myself at Susukino (すすきの) station. There, I experienced a cultural shock something I hadn’t felt in a while, because I hadn’t checked any information about the city beforehand...

Upon exiting the station, my eyes were drawn to the mass of screens and neon advertisements. This wasn't unexpected, as many places like Akihabara or Shibuya have a similar vibe. However, after a couple of minutes, I realized something was off. The advertisements were... different. Many featured establishments aimed at adults. The further I walked, the more surprised I became. In less than five minutes, I counted over twelve such places. Some were simply "bars with female staff," while others touted themselves as massage parlors or "health centers". After spending time in a small, quiet mountain town, encountering this was quite unexpected. Only later did I discover I had stumbled into the red-light district.

Before reaching the hotel, I was quite exhausted. The streets and sidewalks, though cleared of snow, were covered with a layer of ice, making it easy to slip...

Susukino district in the morning. As you can see, despite being a large city, roads can become covered by thick layer of snow quite quickly...

Such sandbag containers can often be found on the streets. Anyone can use them themselves if they find it too slippery to cross the road.

No matter what kind of city it is - snow in the city never makes as good an impression as in the mountains. The half-melted snowy mud can make you forget that you are in Japan.

After checking in and resting for a bit, I decided to explore the city and find a place for lunch. When it comes to food, Hokkaidō is a culinary paradise—some dishes are considered among the best in all of Japan, and I couldn't agree more. During my stay, I planned to try Sapporo Ramen (Miso Ramen), sample Genghis Khan, explore the fish market, or enjoy some delicious crab. With only three days in the city, I resolved to try everything. On the first day, I searched for a restaurant serving ramen. I headed to Susukino district and its "ramen street," known for its numerous authentic restaurants. After a brief walk, I found a place specializing in Miso Ramen. Sapporo Ramen differs from the usual ramen as it's based on miso soup rather than broth. The soup was tasty, though I found it a bit fattier than the regular version.

After the meal, the travel fatigue hit me. Fortunately, my hotel had its own onsen—hot springs.

There's much to say about onsens, but I'll leave that for another time. Japanese hot springs are not just places to relax. Thanks to the high mineral content, they are believed to have healing properties and are popular with locals and tourists. However, like everything in Japan, they have their own rules. The most sensitive aspect is that you must enter the hot springs completely naked! To reassure you, I’ll say it’s less daunting than it seems. The people here are accustomed to it, so no one stares at you. My first attempt at the onsen was stressful, but once I got over it, I found the warm water's relaxation more than compensated for any initial embarrassment.

The next day, I dedicated to go for sightseeing. My first stop was Ōdōri Park (大通), a narrow, rectangular park stretching over a kilometer and a half. The name means "great street." Every February, a spectacular ice sculpture festival takes place there. Unfortunately, I was too early for this event. Fortunately, the park also houses the Sapporo TV Tower, similar to Tokyo Tower (not to be confused with Tokyo Skytree!). Standing at 147 meters with a 90-meter-high observation deck, the view of the city skyline is breathtaking. While there, I was introduced to the attraction's mascot. At first I thought it's only one mascot, but it turns out, that there is entire family of them! A father, mother, son, daughter, grandma, and grandpa towers, each of whom has been granted city citizenship!

TV tower, and a whole family of mascots. There is a description of their personalities and likings... Japanese ingenuity!

Another intriguing site was the oldest clock tower in Japan. Despite its small size, it stands out amidst its surroundings. Built in 1878 in cooperation with the American government, it is Sapporo's oldest building. The original clock, installed in 1881, still keeps time. Inside is a museum with exhibits in both English and Japanese. The upper floor lets you see the mechanism at work and watch a documentary about its function. A visit to the clock tower is quick—the building has only three rooms (the upper floor being one). The entrance fee is a mere 200 JPY, about 7 PLN, making it worth a visit, especially in winter for a warm-up!

With the park, TV tower, and clock tower in close proximity, I still had time for more sightseeing. Naturally, I chose the Sapporo Brewery, hoping to enjoy a fresh beer tasting. I spotted the brewery from the TV tower, so I knew the direction to head. Even if I hadn’t known, navigating Sapporo is easy. This city is relatively new - it was granted city rights in 1922, its streets are laid out in a grid, similar to American cities. Simply glance at a map, then just count the intersections...

I set off and soon reached my destination (though "soon" may be misleading; the walk took about half an hour). However, I'll save the brewery story and another place: Mount Moiwa, for my next post.

Finally, here are a few more photos!