Weekend in Kyoto pt.2

It's time to continue my story about Kyoto. As I mentioned last time, I found myself on the Philosopher's Path, surrounded by crowds eager to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. As each minute passed, I felt an increasing urge to turn back and find another route. Yet, it was the fastest way to reach the next picturesque landmark, Higashima Jisho-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji). I decided to visit it for an unusual reason...

The day before, while studying a map of Kyoto, I noticed that over two years ago, I had marked this location with a pin. Why? Well, before the pandemic hit, I had planned a vacation here! Unfortunately, I can't recall exactly why I chose this spot. Maybe it's because it's one of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kyoto, or because some people say it's more beautiful than the more famous Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion). Regardless, I was truly glad I stuck with my decision. The temple is lovely, but it was the Zen garden that truly captivated me.

It's difficult to put into words. The garden looks both natural and artificially arranged. Every tiny tree and stone has its precisely designated place. Beyond the greenery, the garden features a stone formation designed to resemble Mount Fuji. During my visit, I got intrigued by two men working in the garden. One seemed to be gathering small twigs, leaves, and debris from the moss, while the other... I’m not entirely sure if I really saw it... But it appeared he was trimming the moss to a specific height. This explains why seeing the garden gave me such a mixed feelings. Everything was too perfect. Regardless, this place is simply beautiful and is definitely worth a visit. However, Higashima Jisho-ji isn't the only temple in the area! Right next to it lies a smaller site - Hachi Jinja. It intrigued me because... no one was there. It was a pleasant surprise after the crowds at Ginkaku-ji. Apparently, not everyone bothers to explore place which is just a few meters away. That said, it's understandable, because Hachi Jinja is not as spectacular. What caught my attention was the shrine's simple name. Hachi Jinja literally translates to Shrine of Eight, named after the eight Shinto deities worshiped there.

Kyoto is, of course, more than just castles, temples, and shrines. This city, rich in history, also offers other fascinating places, more related to daily life. Perhaps "ordinary" isn't quite the right word here. Maybe "down-to-earth" places? The site I want to describe is known for being - and still is - a geisha district. I'm talking about the Gion district. This area is most stunning at night, when the old wooden buildings are illuminated by street lamps. For just a moment, one can feel transported centuries back in time... Unfortunately, like many such places, Gion is extremely popular with tourists. My only luck was that, due to the country's temporary closure, only Japanese tourists were present in Gion. And why was that good? It meant their attention was mainly focused on the surrounding cherry blossoms, leaving the side streets a bit more peaceful. This district is popular not only because traditional buildings, but also it's a place you can occasionally see Geisha and Maiko. What is the difference between a Geisha and a Maiko? In short, a Maiko is an apprentice training to become a Geisha. Also, please bear in mind, don't take pictures of geisha without their permission! It's extremely rude to do so...

This part of Kyoto is bustling with bars and restaurants, and there are numerous shops nearby. Walking through the most popular areas, you might find yourself caught in a human traffic jam... on the sidewalk. That gives you an idea of the number of people strolling through Gion.

As I mentioned earlier, I spent only one weekend in Kyoto, which is absolutely not enough time to properly explore the city (for that, I'd recommend 3-4 full days!). However, despite the time crunch, I aimed for one more - perhaps the most famous place. I headed to the impressive Kiyomizu-dera Buddhist temple complex.

To reach it, you need to take a bus (or walk if your hotel is nearby) to the Higashiyama district and then ascend the hill where the temple is situated. This climb is not particularly challenging since it's still part of the city, and you walk along a sidewalk. As you approach, you'll see countless shops, small restaurants, and ice cream parlors. Each is bustling with crowds! Most of them offer various sweets made with matcha (green tea), a signature taste of Kyoto. Once you've made your way through the ascent, the red pagodas come into view. The temple is expansive, comprising many buildings. While the main deity worshiped here is Kannon Bodhisattva (familiar from Senso-ji temple), there are also side altars dedicated to other deities. Almost everything is crafted from wood, so it's easy to imagine that over its thousand-year history, the temple has undergone numerous reconstructions. The temple's name, Kiyomizu, may ring a bell for those familiar with the basics of the Japanese language, as it pertains to water. Indeed, it translates to "the temple of pure water of Mount Otowa.” This refers to a waterfall on the site. It is believed that drinking water from one of its three streams brings various blessings. However, owing to the crowds and the ongoing COVID situation, I chose to skip this attraction, hoping that luck will be on my side anyway.

My sightseeing time came to an end, and I had to head back to the station. As mentioned earlier, Kyoto is a beautiful city, but it truly requires more time to explore it properly. I feel that my attempt to see as much as possible in a day and a half didn't quite work out. Sure, I saw a lot, but there was no time for breaks or longer stops at each site. In hindsight, some of my experiences seem to blur together. If you ever have a chance to visit this city, I recommend not rushing. Reserve plenty of time. Four full days (not counting arrival and departure days) should suffice.

That's it for today's post. More will be coming soon.